Brave Faith

Leaving town last the last couple of times the taxi had taken us through a part of town that seemed to be very “ Eastern” Multiple restaurants, Grocery and Saree (Sari) stores caught my eye and gave me a new found desire to have one of my own.  I have considered and considered this for a while.  On line one day I encountered what the writer called an “Ethnic Walk” and he mentioned the Sari stores.  So I have put it off and put it off, mostly because I had lost the paper with the information, but also because I was a little afraid of that part of town.  Pino, my primary cooking instructor,  assured me though, that it is safe before dark, as well as did the writer of the message board.  Since I was concerned about safety it was now or never as I would not want to drag the kids there.  Let me be perfectly clear, this was all about my insecurities on multiple levels; no one was ever anything less than kind and courteous.  Anyway, I found the message this morning, plotted my way and off I went.  I was overwhelmed at the sumptuous variety of beautiful Indian clothes.  There were not only saris, but also every imaginable, style of tunic and dress, both formal and casual.  I have had one giddy experience helping a patient get undressed and then dressed in a Sari.  This is not enough information to waltz into a Saree store and make a purchase.  So I humbly asked for help.  I got it.  I walked out with a simple red Sari, little top, underskirt, & earrings.  The jewelry was astounding and appeared to be necessary.  Unfortunately photography is not their cup of tea so I was not allowed to take photos.

Walking down the street Sari in hand (I succumbed also to a dress that I am sure was made just for me!)  I noticed that some of the food looked pretty good and by now it was lunchtime.  I was being Mademoiselle brave today so why not?  I had glorified onion rings with a sweet sauce, chicken curry and a cup of espresso for 6.50 Euros.  Not bad.  The interesting thing was that there was a definite line of delineation there.  I looked over at a guy playing with his food with his fingers!  Just pinching, stirring and moving it around to mix it, finally putting some in his mouth.  I began to look at him closely to see if maybe he was a little learning delayed, but I saw no external evidence of this.  Then a few minutes later a couple of young Professionals (appearing to be Indian) also began eating with their fingers.  After a good look around the place I noticed that mostly the folks who ate there regularly were eating with their fingers and the rest of us with silverware!   How naive can a girl be?  I think I knew better too, I just don’t think I expected in it Paris. 

The meat in the photo was just being lowered and handled right out in the middle of the street!  I did sneak this photograph. 

Then I decided that I should try to find some fabric for a friend who is a quilter and had asked for some.  I had not seen fabric up to this point other than the plastic covered fabric for outside.  Recounting this in class last night, Pino commented that there are fabric just up the street, by Sacre Couer.  I made my way back to my old stomping grounds and was thinking about class, Pino and wondering how hard it was going to be to find these stores.  I was looking ahead as a man walked in to the Fran Prix (A grocery store) and whom did I think I spied, I did spy,  Pino!  Sure enough it was Pino!  How fun to run into someone I know in Paris!  I was sure glad because I had it all turned around in my head.  It was fun to see him and he set me on the right path.  When I found them, I found a plethora of stores, my mother would think she had died and was in heaven! 

So after my big morning, back home, tea and another raspberry macaron.  I did some picking up; moving things so there would be room for Jodi and the kids and then went to a place called Chez Jenny for dinner.  I had French Onion Soup, Pork in a honey sauce, with the most interesting sauer kraut, and Chocolate mousse (ours was better in class), and of course a glass of wine.  On my way back home I wanted to go to the store to get a few things for tomorrow, but it was closed.  The crew will just have to go with me! 

Jodi just called from Philly, they are getting ready to board the plane!

"Toto, I don't think were in Kansas anymore"

Oh my, today I woke up hungry and I had intended to not eat breakfast.  I needed to go to the market and I thought it wise not to go there when hungry.  I had a pain au chocolate and coffee crème at a local patessierie and then off to the market.  It is so fun how it is located right behind the apartment.  I do not believe that I have ever stayed in a more convenient place.  All this, and charm as well; I am not sure it can get any better than this.  The market this morning was a blast!  I found a new pair of lime green shoes immediately, and I adore them!  They are leather, comfy and cute, and at twenty Euros, a steal!  Later, I found a cheese slicer for the apartment and one of the soft cheese ones to take home.  I don’t think I have ever seen one in the U.S. so I am pretty excited to have my own goat cheese slicer! 

I was having a great time people watching, buying goodies for Jodi and Kids, and photographing and all of a sudden I realized that I needed to get dressed for my big lunch!  Pino, from Cooking with Class, advised me that it is worth the money to have a lunch at Le Grand Vefour.  I made reservations right away after that because it can take weeks to get one.  Then one of the women in my class, Tracy, thought she might like to go and so she did.  I called and asked in my astoundingly good French for the reservation to be changed and they graciously accommodated me.  We met at the Place du Palais Royal.  I was a bit early so I stepped in Marionaude, to my great pleasure they had a product that I thought to never see again.  It is a Lavender product that bath & Body Works used to sell.

Then we wandered through the Palais grounds, looked as some outdoor art, admired the roses, met this fat pigeon and then went to the restaurant. 

You know the movies where the hero or heroine enters a restaurant any shopping bags and coat are taken and hung.  Those movies where, on the way to the table every employee encountered says, “Hello Madame Fisher” or at least “Bonjour Madame”?  Well today I lived it!  It was a thrill!  The Matrie D pulled out our chars for us and with great flourish placed menus in our hands.  Our wait staff graciously allowed me to practice my French but spoke English to Tracy.  The room was fabulous and the place setting was great, the dishes even have the name of the restaurant on it as part of the design.  We both desperately wanted to take photos of everything, but were too shy, until a bottle of good Sancerre and others taking the lead.  First they brought an Amusee Bouche (just a little goodie to start, literally a mouth pleaser or amuser), I am not sure what it all was, part was a green gazpacho (About a good tablespoon in a big shot glass) and a little piece of fish.  I think.   Then they brought bread, either little twists of French bread or black and white sesame covered roll.  I had Fois Gras, with a carrot and pea puree and toast.  This was followed by Monkfish on a bed of zucchini with a fabulous sauce.  They then offered a cheese course and lastly (I do have a photo of this) a tomato marmalade, strawberry terrine and basil sorbet.  This may not sound that great, but ……. Yea I am sighing just remembering.  Any way they also brought a little long tray of five goodies, one is this gold-topped mini cream puff; there was a tiny chocolate tart with gold leaf, and a cherry macaron.  And THEN they brought caramels, marshmallow or another goodie (I forget) followed by an offering of chocolate.  We ordered coffee and they brought a slice of cake, maybe an angel food, I do not know I couldn’t even begin to think about eating it.  I have to admit I slipped my caramel into my pocket for Jodi!  What an experience.  Pino says Napoleon the III, Colette, and other famous people dined there.  I believe it.  All I can say is, “Thank you Uncle Leonard!”  (It is a family thing)

Tracy and I walked a bit, but I had to get back and get changed for my last cooking class.  So I rushed home, changed, (It was almost like being at work because I was multi tasking!), started a load of laundry and left again.  Some poor guy tried to pick me up in the Metro, funny how that: “Je n comprend pas” works in that situation.  I speak excellent pig Latin too, so I can always rely on that in a pinch to make sure the poor person does not understand “my native language”.  O.K. Seriously I told this poor guy that I was sorry, I did not understand everything he was saying.  I told him that I had a class and could not play with him tonight.   I got there a couple of minutes late, and class had already started.  Tonight Pino had a helper.  Her name was Bernadette and she was a peach too.  We made (Actually in this class we did a lot less work!) Fried Dorade on a bed of______ (You tell me, I saw it in the market this morning and wondered why they were selling wheat, which it is not.) with a leek sauce, Pork tenderloin stuffed with Raisins, almonds and Cherries and a side of onion and fennel confit, for dessert we had cherry clafoutis.  For someone who likes to eat as much as I do I think I died and went to gourmand Heaven!

 

Devine Justice

The second time I brought Jodi here we had an energy crisis.  She felt that she did not have enough energy for her camera and I did not pay enough attention to the problem, thus it became a crisis.  Never think that there is not divine justice!  Last night I plugged in both my phone and camera battery to recharge.  I was so proud of myself this morning as I placed my camera into my purse, that I had charged them both well!  Today I decided to go to see the Basillica of St. Denis, it is where St Denis ended up when he was beheaded, and the old guy picked up his head and carried it to this place.  It is also where many of the French Royals were buried.  Getting there was a bit of a challenge. I think the RER is harder than the Metro, but it was the only way, short of a cab to get there, so off I went.  IT took about an hour and a half but I finally got to the St Denis station, walked up a main street that was thronging with a multicultural denizens.  I was amazed at the number of people in the street in the middle of the day.   I found the Basicilla and got out my camera to take a photo and it would not turn on.  I looked at it, tried again, and thought, “hmm, What’s up?  I just charged the battery.” Then I noticed that if felt a little light and I opened the battery chamber and it was not there!  I left it in the apartment; I had unplugged the charger from the wall, but not taken the battery out of the charger. 

Cell phones are a wonderful thing, and while not quality, at least I have some images, some of which are not too bad!  The Basilica is beautiful in and of itself, and I got more than I bargained for because I had to do a report on Charlemagne for my last class, and I got to see his grave, that of his mother and father, and of course Francois 1er, Catherine De Medici, And last but not least Marie Antoinette.  Notice in the picture of Catherine De Medici, that both her and her consort’s hands are folded in prayer!  While she was not the more evil of the two De Medici Rulers, I thought it ironic!  Poor Marie Antoinette, always the height of fashion, their tomb was not done until after Napoleon and she is dressed in an empire wasted (the term comes from the “Empire” of Napoleon and the waist styles that were popular then) rather than a dress she would have been really in her time.  I had lunch at a little place right by the Basilica, probably got ripped off but I pulled a Bill and Toots and saw a tart a man had just been served and it looked too good!  It was a salmon and sorrel tart served with a salad. 

I returned home to get that darned battery, made reservations for dinner, and started writing today’s bolg.  Then back out to BHV.  I had heard a lot about this store, but not ever really been there.  WOW.  First that perfume for my friend, it was there.  I got so excited that I had go call her just to make sure it was the right stuff.  Then my friend Kathy had given me Euros for my birthday before I left and I bought some French CDs.  Current French music is difficult to find, even on I-tunes.  Eric from Cookin’ With Class had given me some recommendations and I tortured the poor sales guy in the music department.  I even discovered one on my own because Borders isn’t the only gig that has headphones so one can preview.  I also had seen a the maps one of my Fordor buddies had and was feeling  a little green about that, so I found one too.  All in all while Sanmartine it is not, it is a honey.  AND there is this great dusky lavender purse that may be singing the sirens song to me.

Dinner at Aux Lyonaise( Ala Alain Ducasse)  was very fun and once again I tried something new and LOVED it.  I asked the waiter what he would recommend and followed his suggestions, with trepidation, but in a stalwart manner.  It went well.  I had a charcutrie board, which was probably totally not good for me, but it was good and flavorful.  In addition to the meat it was served with cornichons, (tiny pickles) and a potatoes salad that had ham in it. Imagine my surprise when that odd looking pink potato turned out to be ham!  It is a new taste treat to consider.  Then I had a Quenelle et ecrevisses, which my dictionary calls dumplings, but let me tell you this was not a dumpling as we know it.  The waiter described it as fish mousse which sound horrid, but it was the lightest, most delicate piece of food I think I have ever had.  It was a big pillow of smooth fish mousse that had been gratinated and served with a sauce and a crème on the side.  It was not even served with any kind of knife I have ever used before.  It was heavenly.  Then for desert he recommended a apple dish and when I was served I looked at it and thought,” It is just a poached apple.”  But it was served with a piece of cinnamon pound cake and had been cored and stuffed with some sort of jelly or jam.  It too, was good and light, so in spite of the fact that I probably consumed a zillion calories, I left feeling fabulous. 

The restaurant is lovely.  There are these white ironstone dishes at home that I am particularly fond or, they are an ivory white, have a pattern and then have been sort of antiqued, know the item?  First let me tell you that I had to take a photo of the tile in the only place I could think of to do it without making a fuss, which was the bathroom.  So now you can see an example, but above the tile, including light fixtures and columns, everything was done in the look of those ironstone dishes.  Honestly I don’t remember was below.  I was pretty fixated on that tile and the icing above. 

So I am home and my new music is downloaded and I am listening to it!  Bonne Nuit

Surprises

This morning I went to a new patisserie.  This one is out the back door, up rue Daval and a right on Rue de Rockette.  It may take over as my favorite because the people there are much nicer.  The one at the other 2 places I have visited were nice enough, but in a hurry to just move on to the next customer and did not have time for even a smile.  Today though I was greeted with a smile, on leaving another smile, and then at my faux pas of including some Spanish in my “you have a good day too”, a mutual chuckle!

It is raining, and blessedly cool, hard to complain about the rain with the relief form the heat that it brings.  Fortunately the years I spent in Lafayette in an un-air-conditioned house had prepared me for various techniques at being cool. But still…..

I sort of piddled around for a while because it was pouring.  When it finally quit I headed to Rue Montmatre, to see if I could find a store I had visited in the past, but I was a failure.  I encountered several “passages” of which I have only seen a few, so it was fun to get to experience more of them.  They are the shopping mall of the 19^th century.  This one had charming stores that made me want to buy it all and bring home.  Teri would think she died and went to heaven.  I did.  I also stumbled across the Porte Saint Denis, which I did want to see.  It was really hard to get a good photo of it (as you can see I failed) because it is as if someone dropped in an area that was almost too tight for it.  Impressive it is though and it was built by Louis XIV to commemorate his victories.  The lion reminded me of Lucy who had her tongue hanging out of her moth half of the time.  This green “thing” is a Wallace fountain that was placed to give the citizens of Paris clean drinking water.   They are located all over the city.  This particular fountain in on the corner of where I catch the metro to come home from cooking school. 

Tonight was wine and cheese tasting.  There were seven of us in this class, Tracy (from another class – it was sure nice to see her again), Laurie from Canada, Georgia and Bob and Darlene and Brad, and the instructor Eric.  We got to try a variety of cheeses, wines accompanied by bread, fruit, and jam or butter as appropriate.  It was a very educational evening.  The unfortunate thing is that many of the cheeses we tried are not available at home.  On the way home the metro interchange was totally deserted while I waited, that is so unusual that I had to take a picture, the other night the entire car was empty!  Both times I was little surprised, because in my immense experience this is unusual. 

It was still light at 9:30 and The Place was beckoning, I have come to appreciate that little “ Genie” that I see every day coming and going.  I also found the Vespa I would own if I were to buy one, isn’t she sweet?  Finally Cour Damoye was enchanting tonight as I walked in from the back way tonight.  Lights just beginning to come on, the entire street had a golden glow.

Entree: Macarons, Main: The Kaleels, Desert: Cool Wind and Rain

Today was an utterly fabulous day in spite of the wilting heat.  My macaron class was today and to be honest, while pretty frivolous, the class I have been most excited about.  Don’t get me wrong, strawberry tarts, chocolate mousse, fois gras/ orange fennel salad, mussles in a saffron cream sauce, shrimp with aioli, and croissants are all very exciting.  The macaron, though is something of a mystery to most Americans and the preparation of them was to me as well.  There were five of us in this class, a mother and daughter duo and two other women, as well as our fearless leader, Pino.  We made raspberry macarons first and then coffee flavored with caramel or chocolate ganache filling.  We worked and worked and some of them are actually quite beautiful!  I did not taste anything other than a piece of a broken shell.  I wanted to have the surprise of them when my copany shared them with me later.   I was hungry on the way home and decided to get Chinese carry out and bring it home.  IT was o.k. good except the little stinker forgot the sauce for my ravioli du porc (pot stickers) and they would have had a little more zip with some sauce.  I had to ask for chopsticks and I learned that they are called:  les baguette!  It was hot, hot, hot and I needed to run to Monoprix for some cream because I had the pleasure of having guests today for tea.  ON my way to Monoprix I encountered this little guy in the photo waiting for his momma while she shopped, wonder if Lucy could EVER be that good?  I was not sure if we would have coffee or tea, and so when I got home I eventually made some tea and chilled it.  In the end that was what sounded best to all of us.  I came back stripped down, pulled the covers back and took a brief nap.  It was such a pleasant thing to do on such a hot day.  SO about an hour later I got to meet Marilyn Kaleel and her husband Todd (This is me taking the cowards way out because her lovely husband is Egyptian and I heard her call him Todd a couple of times and I am to big a chicken to try to spell his proper name correctly!)  I hope I managed to hide me pleasure at my first bite of our morning creations!  They were wonderful, good, good, I mean really good!   I think that honestly they are better than any I have bought here!  I did freeze some for Jodi and the kids to try later.  I don’t know how I will keep myself away from the refrigerator!  Anyway I had a fabulous visit with the Kaleels (Thank you Jan!) and then we went to dinner at a little place at which Marilyn had made reservations.  It is called Chez Germaine, about 12 tables, maybe could seat 20 people.  I had Mozzarella and Tomatoes salad, Salmon with potatoes and pistou and Clafouti.  My meal was scrumptious and the company even better!  As I finish this us it is just beginning to rain, the wind is blowing and it is a blessing!

Praying, Knitting and Eating my way through Sunday

Notre Dame was calling my name again today, so I took the metro to the Cite metro stop and walked the little way left to arrive just in time.  There are Mass “Nazis” in the sanctuary and they are serious about not letting tourists in for mass!  Good thing you don’t have to prove that you are Catholic too or I would be up the creek.  Today there was a choir from somewhere English speaking, but they sang in Latin.  I just don’t know what it is that ‘gets’ me about passing the peace, but I about bawl every time.  This time I got to pass the peak to a bunch of Italians, an angel who sat behind me and sang every line, and a couple of Americans.  All in al it was another very nice service.   A friend asked me to light a candle and say a prayer for her.  So before I left I honored her request.  

Next Le Fleur en Isle called to me, it was hot and the steak tartare sounded good.  I had to laugh at the waiter; he was very worried that I understand that is it not cooked.  And then in an honest effort to me happy he brought ketchup.  Bless his heart; I had to ask for mayonnaise for my fries.  Which I ate, and they were pretty good.  About half way through my meal two young men from Texas were seated next to me that made for nice conversation for a while.

Then I went to one of my favorite places in Paris, Square JeanXXIII. It is directly behind Notre Dame and it had a spectacular view, as well as some of the most beautiful roses I have ever seen.  I read for a while, knitted a few rows and then had to try my hand at artsy photography of the roses.  There was an art showing there too, and it was fun to stroll around looking at the various things offered.  Then at 4:30 every Sunday there is someone who plays the organ for about 30-45 minutes, before the evening Vespers service.  So I availed my self of the cool interior of Notre Dame for a little free music.  It was lovely and powerful, in the way that only organ music can be.  Then I made my way to another Dallloyau location (I had noticed that they were open on Sunday when snooping last night) and had pear juice with real ice cubes and macaroons: Pistachio, Champagne, and Apricot.  It was 82 degrees and Sunny here today; so those ice cubes were a gift straight from Heaven. I had wanted to sit outside, but it was gloriously cool in side as well.  Some times not getting what you want IS a blessing.

Then I went to Luxembourg and sat in the shade there for quite a while, there was a cool breeze and it was pleasant, there were so many people that the sound in the park reminded me of summer nights with many locusts chattering.  There is a new golden figure of a head there that required closer examination, but I decided that once again the Parisians had (to quote Jodi) crapped up a good thing!  I wandered looking at some of the statues of the Queens of France that line the park and then went in search of food.  Lucky for these two lovers in the photo, there are not kissing "Nazis" in Luxembourg Gardens!

Polidor was close and I decided that it seemed a logical choice for a Sunday evening, so I moved in that directions, On the way some poor man decided that he had to tell me how beautiful I am and try to chat me up.  I was seriously not interested and luckily Polidor was, well what do you know, “right here.”  So I ducked in the restaurant and fortunately he did not follow me.  I ordered pumpkin soup (I had to fight with myself to not order Fois Gras!), Pork in a curry sauce, and chocolate ice cream, which was wonderfully cool.  But about half way through, one again no good deed went unpunished (I had picked up the tab for those Texans earlier in the day, kind of a pay it forward thing) and I realized that I had little or no euros on me, and that Polidor was a cash only place.  Visions of touring the inside of a local police station or being allowed to spend time in the kitchen danced in my head.  I told the lady that I had a problem and she was very gracious about it.  I left her (Fortuantly I did have some American cash on me) $60.00 and told her I would go to get Euros and be back.  So the Blessing?  Well on my way up Rue Racine a second time I ran into a lovely mother and daughter from the US and we chatted for about 20 minutes.  In my life I seem to be blessed with sliver linings in every cloud!