Mad for Macarons

This morning I went to the corner patisserie to get my morning croissant, being in the moment, I admired a lovely building placed diagonally across from the bakery.  There is a balcony on the top floor with all sorts of colorful plants and I thought, “ they have created their own little garden there.”   On my way out, not even a good minute later there was smoke pouring out of the top of the building!  As  I stood there dumbfounded a police car pulled up.  I stood for a minute more and decided that they didn’t need my person in the crowd.  On my way back, the patisserie is really very close, one could hear sirens blaring in the distance.  One alarming thing in the apartment is that the teakettle reminds me of the sirens here; I wonder if it is a notice that if you don’t pay attention you will hear them for real!  Once back on my street a person asked if I knew what was going on.  Then as we were talking people hung their heads out their windows above to ask more questions.  Quite a little neighborhood here on Cour Damoye. 

I worried about it for a bit, what if I had to leave the apt, would I be able to intelligently get my stuff together to evacuate, is there anything here that Jan would want me to take, etc.  Finally I decided that I needed to eat my breakfast!  I slathered up croissant with butter, yes more butter, and apricot jam and took a bite.  As I was chewing I thought,  “a little tough, some one must have been a little heavy handed.”  Then I had to laugh at myself, one class and suddenly I am an expert!

I decided to have a lazy day, one just like I would have at home. I am a temporary Parisian and why not live large? So, today,  I have done copious research on Macarons.  I now have on my computer recipe flavors that include Chocolate, Snickers and Ketchup!  In my research I even encountered a site that states the caloric price of each of these little delicacies.  All this research kept reminding me that there is a luscious little box of them in the kitchen!  But to just eat them without fanfare seemed wrong. So I trekked to the corner to check out the remnants of the fire, one cannot even tell now!  Then on the way back I stopped in the cutest little shop that is on my street.  It is a Brullerie, and I purchased some coffee there yesterday and remembered that she had a huge amount of tea.  That was what instigated the trip outside the apartment at all.  I purchased something that has “virgin” in the title; it is beautifully flavored and smooth enough that I am happy without sugar.  I thought it appropriate considering my work!  I made some tea and picked out two more of my sweet little fairy pillows to enjoy.  I decided on grapefruit and a mixture of passion fruit and rhubarb.  To be honest neither of them had the excitement of yesterdays flavors. 

I finally pulled myself out of my fun filled day of laziness, research and macarons and readied to go to dinner with my on line friends from the Fordor website.  On my way I had to have a look at the macarons at Dalloyau, which is quite near to me.  We met at a place called Perraudin on the 5^th er, quite near the Panthenon.  Actually it is just around the corner.  There were 17 of us from the US, South Africa, and Australia.  We had a great time and the food was good.  I had, you guessed it, Fois Gras on toast for an appetizer, Salmon on a bed of spinach with a sorrel sauce and potatoes (which I did not eat – I was saving myself) and Nougat Glace with a raspberry sauce.  Yum.  I tried the Kir du Masion (for Jodi), it was made with Armagnac and was tasty and then a glass of the house Cotes du Rhone.  The food was reasonably priced and the company was great!  I sat beside 2 ladies from California, Sandy and Holly and then Tina and her nephew.  While there were 10 of us at our table I did not really get to chat so much with the others, they were just so far away.  I did get to chat with Leely, Leslie and her spouse on the way to the metro.  Yes I was eating and drinking so it is looks like I am lit in the photo, I was only high on a great evening!  It was a beautiful evening out and even at 10:00PM I hated to go inside, but alas tomorrow is another day and a Frenchie needs her sleep!

Mandarin and Rose Macarons and Grapefruit Dish Soap

So I am thinking that the French have a smell thing, and that is interesting considering some of the odors I nuzzle up to while walking in the Metro.   Unwashed humanity, Eau du Piss, occasionally someone’s overly strong perfume are only a few of the scents I encounter. However some ordinary daily events become extraordinary in France.  First it was the toilet paper, and today it was my grapefruit and orange flower dish soap.  I washed dishes with the loveliest scent tickling my nose.

I left my map at the restaurant last night so I trecked back to get it this morning, encountering this picture perfect man sitting in front of a bar.  On the way beck I encountered one of dozens of lovely florist ships.  This one had unusual displays to purchase and take.  The think I mostly notice other than the presence of them out on the street, is that they also carry item one can plant.  Most of them seem to be patio type plants and maybe it is to make up for all the concrete?  Regardless they are lovely little oases in the middle of the gray.

My next big adventure of the day was to go looking for perfume for that friend again.  This time I remembered the number of the building.  I found it, but it did not seem like a store.  I went in anyway.  My French must be getting better because I clearly understood that I was not to be in there and that the store I was looking for is gone!  So on to what I wanted!  Pierre Herme is a new kid on the Macaron (Macaroon) block.  My friend Susan sent me to Lauduree a few years ago.  Up to that point I had seen the French Macrons in the stores, in the marked, pink, tan and brown.  But I had not really paid any attention to them, assuming that they were meringue.  That they are not.  Susan’s request led me down the path of yet another caloric sin!  I enjoyed the ones from Angelina and was ready for more.  The flavors are interesting ranging for olive oil and vanilla, apricot and pistachio, to the much-discussed Rose petal and leeched nut.  (Now you know why I tried that yogurt).  So for a mere 16 euros I walked out with eight macaroons in the flavors of my choosing in a cute little box and a lovely bag.  The box is interesting, maybe he is a bit of an egomaniac, it has several Parisian landmarks and one of them is his store!  I had hoped that I could have tea there and enjoy them right away but I had to take them to the Tullieries and sitting the park and delight myself with one of them.  It was the Apricot and Pistachio.  It was pretty wonderful the apricot tasted fresh, and the nuts must have been toasted.  After a short reverie I want a new way to my class.  What a boob, it was all up hill.  Some times new things do not achieve the desired effect!  I got there and the palace was locked up tighter than a drum. SO I called the owner and he said that I had been a now show for the morning.  Luckily I had saved all my paperwork and I really did not screw this one up.  Anyway, then I was at a loss and rather crestfallen.  I was all dressed up and nowhere to go.  So I decided to grab a bite somewhere and go to one of the concerts that I had seen publicized yesterday on my way to dinner.  It was an Ave Maria concert in Sainte Chapelle.  Saint Louis (a rather nasty man from the accounts that I have read- I don’t understand how he ever got canonized) built Sainte Chapelle to house relics that he purchased form the Emperor of Constantinople.  It is lovely, incredibly ornate and the innumerable stained glass panels all tell stories of the bible for those who were unable to read, which was most people.  Funny though because this chapelle was built for royalty, though how many royals could read in the thirteenth century is not something in my area of expertise. 

So I did not have dessert with any dinner because I knew those macarons were waiting here for me to return.  Making myself a pot of teal I indulged in mandarin and rose and cassis.  While both were very good, the Mandarin and Rose were very sweet and the Cassis was very tart! A perfect way to end the day.  I am so excited to take this class on Monday!

Un Euro - Thursday May 21, 2009

Yesterday I got up and rather than having breakfast here I walked to Gare de Lyon to do some reconnaissance.  I wanted to see where we would pick up our car.  I also wanted to see if there was truly locker space available.  Also I had heard that Le Train Blue, located within the Gare, is an experience not to be missed.  IN addition, I had heard that breakfast is the best choice because the food is not all that great, but the atmosphere is fabulous.  It indeed is.  The décor strongly suggested Versailles.  I sat and read, enjoyed my coffee, pastry and fresh OJ for quite a while.  Unfortunately I had an energy crisis and my camera battery was back at the apartment getting recharged, so my photos are not of the best quality.  I could not really get a good one in the restaurant.  L  Then I got down to business.  The auto rental and the lockers are on the exact opposite parts of the station, but it is better than not being able to get everything in the car.  That done I came back to freshen up and then went to the marche.  I wandered, bought myself some more flowers, 2 eggs, and some lunch.  I have no idea what it was called but it was very good.  I am pretty sure that the meat was ham and I am thinking Jodi will LOVE those veges.   There are leftovers.    I got tickled at these two little girls in the photo, I could not see attentive parents anywhere and the girls were entranced by this organ grinder.  He was just paying away. The things on top of the wooden crate are the booklets that make his organ work.  He put one and started turning and the grinder would pull it in and spit it out the other side, resulting in some music.  The green objects here are Courgettes, but I have not ever seen them round like this. I have seen this type of zucchini at several markets here.  I got to the market quite late and several of the vendors were shouting, “Un Euro…… Un Euro” .  SO much so, that it became singsong.  I stepped out to the curb to look for my street and there was a young child sitting strapped in a seat in n open van and she looked at me grinned and said “Un Euro”  I got tickled and laughed and it became a game.  She was so cute! 

 So after my very good but mysterious lunch I took off for the PURSE shop, there are several that need my consideration.  I wandered in the 5^th and 6^th for a long while, finding a walking street that I had not ever noticed.  I have no idea how we missed it as we have been up and down rue de Saint Andres Des Artes a hundred times, but it was charming and there was a fun little tea shop that called out to me.  I had an apple and rhubarb crumble that is a new twist and a yummy one!  It was served with sour cream, and that too was yummy!  After I left my sweet little tea shop, I encountered an ubiquitous Starbucks!  What is right with that?  I guess also that Subway has made it here BIG TIME!

I wandered and wandered and finally ended up at Les Fetes Galant to meet Julia and Jeff.  I had texted her and for some reason it did not go through, so we finally made contact and got off to a late start but had a good time.  I think my favorite restaurant needs a good spiffing up, but the salad I had was good, the meat o.k. And my chocolate mousse was adorned with various fruits to make it look like a mouse!  We shared a bottle of wine and like I said we had a nice time.  OR at least I did!  We did not get out of there until 12:30 so another late night for me.  But there is nothing like good food and even better companionship.  

Fish Heads Swimming

When I am in Paris, the last thing I expect on a Capreses salad is canned tomato.  I wandered the neighbor hood this evening, not horribly hungry but wanting something different from a salad.  I should have stuck to my guns because I finally went in the Café Bastille and ordered a Mozzarella, Tomatoes and Procuitto salad.  It was absolutely the worst meal I have ever had in Paris, and that is including MacDOO!  I was so astonished that I even tried the tomatoes but they were mushy canned tomatoes and I was dismayed.  After, though,  I had a tiny cup of Gelato from a local place and it was very good, it did not make up for the bad tomatoes though.  While I was eating my gelato, I watched these guys (I must apologies for the photo quality all I had was my phone available to take a photo) do their act.  These guys were pretty spetacular, the white guy could be perpendicular to the ground and holding himself up on only one hand.  I hope that they are here for the kids to see.  The area around the entrance to Cour Damoye is very lively.  The evenings are lush with the voices of people visiting with each other, sharing an evening drink, some time and the open air. 

It was another lovely day here and I met up with Laura, Lauren (Mother and daughter in the photo, alas I did not get a photo of Laura) Louise and Christian (the chef and instructor) at our metro stop.  We again walked the street looking at what was available today and then decided on a menu.  Bet you can’t guess what kind of butcher is in the picture!  Today’s Menu, though, consisted of Sea Bass en Papillote, Guinea Fowl in a mushroom sauce and mashed potatoes and celery root. A cheese course, of course  And we prepared Molten Chocolate cake for dessert, but never fear I did learn a new twist on it, Sauce au Folle!  Fish again! I may just turn into a fish lover!  And we are not talking your regular run of the mill Long John Silvers here!  Moist, savory fish prepared in ways that I am really enjoying.  AND I am preparing it!  Making the fish stock is a hoot, I would have taken photos of it, but it seemed so invasive of the privacy of the poor dead fish heads swimming in our boiling water!  This was my last day class, and it sort of made me sad when I had to say good-bye to the cheese shop lady! 

When class was over I went back to Rue Montmartre looking for a silicone rolling pin, but Simon did not have one, and the other stores were twice as much, at those prices I can purchase one when I get home, which leaves me with the dough problem for tomorrow morning, but I will figure it. 

While I was out walking this evening I noticed that the Metro stop just up the street is one of the lovely Art Deco versions, I will have to try to arrange a nicer photo (again I just had my trusty I Phone) later.  Also I have to mention that I am fascinated with the building across from me.  I thought the apartment was empty, I can clearly see stairs up to the roof, but I think that there is someone living there, It does not look even remotely like it is inhabited, but rather like a show rooms.  Oh my gosh, I am turning into Mrs. Cravitz!  I hope no one saw me taking photos to share with you all. Bon Soir.

Butter, Butter and more Butter

Our class today was baking, bread products specifically.  We got to pound out butter, until it was very thin for the croissants we were going to make.  Interestingly the French can buy flat layers of butter specifically to make the croissant, but one still has to beat it thin.  (Two pounds about 12 x 18 x 1 inches) The next time my neighbors have a late night party, well, I am making pain au chocolate the next morning!  (One uses croissant dough to make them).  Look out partiers, here I come.  I may even offer them some!  Justice is sweet.  We made regular croissants, pain au chocolate (the chocolate for these comes in little 4 inch logs ready to be placed in the dough!) and Palmiers (sort of) and a savory cheese and sausage roll.   In addition I finally learned to make foccacia bread, which will be great for my pizza addiction.  Class was fun, full and we got to drink wine!  Pino sent me home with some left over dough to make my own in the AM, There is not a rolling pin in the apt, and I will have to purchase a silicone one anyway, might as well be VERY soon!  Pino said that is something I should purchase here.  He also said this is not work for your great-grand-mothers rolling pin.  I think he is absolutely right, as I cannot even find an example to put in as a link.  Simon, here I come.  Simon is a cooking store for professionals here in Paris.  But for tomorrow, there are some empty bottles available in the apartment.  I might just try to work with, one has to be resourceful!  Good thing the pounding is done, well, most of it anyway.

So I had to get right home to place the dough in the fridge, but then I bounced back out to visit the Grand and Petit Palais.  I had to laugh because after I was there I realized that they were built for the 1900 worlds fair, not the 1889 fair.  So I did not get to do any real research done for my book today.  Which I guess I need to mention that blogging has taken up most of my writing time.  Mindy (my writing instructor) says that sharing our writing is a gift.  Well let me tell you…….. Though I think I may take my computer with me to the Champs du Mars soon and just loll there and write.  Hmmm…..

I did walk over to the Eiffel tower.  On the way (I had been warned by my buddies on line about this) a young white male approached me, leaned over and dallied with a gold ring on the ground.  I rolled my eyes at him; he rolled his back and left me alone.  What a boob, my father did better with coins on the ground when I was a kid!  Then not ten minutes later a young, dark skinned woman near the Eiffel Tower did the same thing, she was pushier, but nurse ratchet kicked in and she got my message quickly.  I had not personally seen this trick before, but had heard plenty about it.  Too bad for them I did not even bring any gold with me, so I would not even consider the ring mine. That is the idea, to let them divert your attention with the ring so they can pick your pocket while you are looking at it. 

Today I finished my current book and knitted sitting in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower.  My intent was to leave the dishrag I am knitting here in the apartment, but with all these memories, I may have to take it home. There were lots of people there on the grass in the Chaps du Mars, a few of them really needed to get a room, but where could you get one with a view like that?  I eventually decided that it was time to try Courtney and Joe’s trick and get a photo of myself.  Not bad, what do you think? 

 

 

Lavender Toilet Paper and White Chocolate Macarons

I was so high from dinner last night that I could not get to sleep until around 3 AM.  Then I woke up to a glorious sunny day at 9 AM.   This is going to be a good day!  Then I was taking a little time and reading the Fordors board.  I have to tell you this is a good life!  I found MY apartment (Smiling at Jan) in an advertisement in a French magazine I get, but prior to that in my searching for a place to stay I had found an apartment that has a huge “picture window” looking at the Eiffel tower.  It was a little pricey but alas unavailable.  I read today on the board that the people who kept me from getting it (the renters) are complaining that their view is marred by two large yellow cranes.  SO I am in a much cuter place and did not get gypped about the view.  Oh, yea Life is Good.  Hmm, wonder how that would look in a tee shirt?

 

So, Let’s talk toilet paper.  I get a quite a bit of grief about the things I like to purchase over here, and just today I realized yet another thing that the French do better than the Americans.  It is toilet paper.  Now this is not your run of the mill Charmin and to be honest it came as a quite a shock, because up to this point I would have said that we do TP much better, but today I opened the lavender colored TP I purchased last week.  I selected it because it was a good price and because of the color.  Something we defiantly do not have at home.  But I opened it this morning to have a lovely scent of Lavender waft up to greet me.  Not only is it Lavender in color but it is also scented.  Where have we missed the boat on this?  Of course Americans might have to give up their white paper, or their white paper or their white paper.  When did we go all white?  When I was a kid my grandmother had pink, though I do not remember rose scented paper.  I am thinking that I would certainly purchase lovely paper to have a small luxury while on the throne.  Paper fit for a princess!  Now how much of it can I import? ???  Maybe a new business venture?

 

I decided to go in search of some perfume for a friend and generally shop today.  I never found the perfume store, and to be honest I think I am either spoiled or lazy.  Shopping here in the big department stores it totally different and really not generally useful.  For example there are various designer areas in the store, with one of 2 sizes in each item. The woman in the picture seemed about as thrilled with the Grands Magazines as I felt!

On my way home I had hot chocolate at Angelina’s.  It was creamy, thick and chocolaty.  It comes in a pitcher with a bowl of whipped cream to stir in as you drink it.  It was fabulous as usual.  On my way out white chocolate macaroons caught my eye and I just had to try one, so I bought a tiny selection and had one with a cup of strawberry tea on my arrival back in the apartment.  Pure Bliss