The Real and the Pretenders June 5, 2009

I decided if Mc Donald’s was going to be the bane of my existence then I might as well use them.  Jodi and I planned on a quick drive through McDonalds for breakfast this morning and then on our way to the American Cemetery!  On the way I noticed a patisserie and I stopped to get Jodi and I a pastry, but the kids were holding out for better.  Horror of Horrors, McDonalds does not serve breakfast, at least not the one in Avarranche!  So on we trekked for white a while, needing fuel for both the car and our bodies.  Finally we found fuel for the car, and eventually for us.  We ended up at a Bar Tabac where we could get coffee and milk, after we paid a preliminary visit to the bakery next door. 

We got to the American Cemetery and got our exercise for the day, as we had to walk almost a mile to get in because they were parking everyone far away.  We walked in to barrier tape, bleachers and a sea of chairs set up for President Obama for the following day.  It was not it’s normal lovely self, but I guess if you had not ever been there before….  Again the up side was that there were all these heroes there, both those who had experienced D-Day 65 years ago and those who currently wearing our American uniform.  It was such a huge blessing to be able to talk to the men who had been there, hear their stories, and express our thanks!  I had also the privilege of bedeviling a few of our current soldiers and at one such experience one of them, a paratrooper, gave each kid a pair of wings!  How special was that?  The kids were precious, a woman had walked by us touching each stone she walked by, as if caressing it.  A few moments later I saw both kids doing the same thing, with only the reverence that can some from knowing that you are in a sacred place. I don’t believe that I will ever visit that place and not be moved, by not only the sacrifice but also the magnitude of the thousands of crosses and stars there.  It truly is holy ground.

Next on the agenda for the day was Pont Du Hoc, but first Cider for Jodi.  She loves the hard cider that they make in Normandy.  We stopped as the same place we had visited before.  The kids loved it and we had to buy some apple juice for them too!   Pont Du Hoc had changed and morphed from a simple place you can go into a tourist attraction complete with parking lot and bathrooms.  The kids had suffered through the “Longest Day” and I though it would help drive the story home.  They loved running in and out of the craters left by fellow Americans 65 years ago.  One some times wonders if they get it or not.  We were walking, the kids playing and like a thief in the night a plane was on us, just overhead without any warning.  I found out later that it was a new plane hot off the factory floor that was paraded around all weekend just for the D-Day events.    It looked old, but I found it hard to imagine we had the technology back then to make a plane so quiet that was not a glider.  As I mentioned earlier, Pont Du Hoc has changed significantly, it is now so roped off that it is hard to even see the actual piece of rock the title refers to.  I wonder how many people go and think that the memorial is actually the rock?  We got to visit with a couple of D-Day vets there too, one fellow said that he did not wear his uniform unless it was an official event, I found his reticence charming.

St Mere Eglise, where there is still likeness of a man hanging on the church, was next.  It was tricky to find a space to park as here the whole center of town was barricaded off for festivities to come.  There were scads of pretenders here and it was almost eerie to consider that this was as close as I was going to come to the real thing.  Everywhere one would look were American, British and Canadian flags, thank you signs and other D-day paraphernalia.

  I love driving straight east from St. Mere Eglise to the water.  We did not find the same beach as Jodi and I had before, but the kids did not care, they still loved it, it was water and they could splash.  Utah beach was blocked off and so we headed back to the hotel by way of Granville.  I was driving and living in fear of yet, another McDonalds, but Jodi is really very good to me.  I had indicated that I wanted to try some more mussels and in Granville we went in search for them.  We found three likely spots right on the Warf and I asked some women passing by which they would recommend.  Fortunately for the kids they recommended the place that also made Pizza.  So I got my mussels and everyone was happy!  After a delightful dinner we wandered in the car up into the older part of town only to encounter a lighthouse.  As we were getting out of the car my phone rang, startled I answered it and it was work!  Ironically they had a person who needed my services and spoke mostly French, Unfortunately I was not available to assist them (other than to give my opinion) and I went back to my vacation, after a small taste of my real life.  The piece of ground on which the lisght house stood had been fortified by the Germans and still even had cannons in the pillboxes.  The setting sun was exquisite and while Jodi is not thrilled with this photo of me, I like it; it softens out those 50 years!

Moving on into the Beginning, June 4, 2009

Today we had to move out of our lovely apartment on Cour Damoye.  I was sad to leave, it meant my time was nearly at an end, my precious Escapade nearly termine.  I got up early, before everyone else and continued the packing we had began the night before.  Finally I did everything done I could before we ate breakfast, so I roused the troupes.  Elmer arrived as we were eating our clean out meal.  I had to leave a bunch of stuff; hopefully he was able to make use of it.  He helped us get all our posessions to the local taxi stand and get a taxi to Gare de Lyon.  After all the reconnaissance I had done a week or so ago, I failed.  The place I spotted for Sixt auto rental was a drop off and I had to traipse off and find the place across the street, dumping me out yet another street over!  Holy Merde, How was I to find them?  Find them I did easily and we drove out of town with the ease of a Woman who has lived in Paris for a month!  Actually, better than that!  Jodi and I will always believe it was the constant state of prayer we were in as we drove in and out of Paris!

 I wanted to go to Bienville so the kids could see Pegasus Bridge first.   To my limited way of thinking this is where the action of D-Day began.  I know that it was much more complicated than that, but as an intro for the kids I thought it would be good.  It was better than good.  What I had not considered, had no idea of, or even knew about is that there are people who actually reenact the D-day events each year.  So we encountered hundreds of people dressed in 1940’s attire sporting around in old US (mostly) military vehicles.  There were Motorcycles, cycles with sidecars, trucks, jeeps, cars and even a few ambulances!  In Bienville, I thought they were all American.  I was waving at them like long lost friends, then in Arromanche I parked slightly illegally and I  let Jodi and the kids get out and see the sights and stayed with the car.  Up pulled two jeeps with people dressed in the 1940’s military gear and speaking the Queens English, not the English I would have expected from a person with an American flag on their shoulder!  Shy person that I am, asked them what was up with that and learned, that there are people from all over Europe who participate annually in any festivities that are available.  This year because of the 65^th anniversary, any one who was interested was there in Normandy at the same time as we.  It was a blessing and curse!   The curse part became more and more visible as the two days we spent in Normandy passed.  Traffic was very heavy; we even got turned away from a restaurant at lunch because they said they were too busy.  I went back to the car muttering about how “I’d better never hear another Frenchman complaining about McDonalds”!  We did end up dining at McDonalds AGAIN that day for lunch!  We buzzed by the American cemetery but it was now after 5PM and I was pretty sure it would be closed.  Sometimes it stinks to be right!

  We moseyed towards our hotel, and around 10PM were getting close when after driving around a round-a-bout the 4^th time the flashers came on.  The problem is that neither of us turned them on, nor did we know how to turn them off.  The auto was a Ford so it seemed to me that I should instinctively know how to turn them off, but alas I did not.  Neither, was my French good enough to figure out how to turn the dammed things off.  So finally we decided that we were just going to drive and maybe someone at the hotel would know how or be able to read the book.  We are driving along, I was feeling about like I did when we were Segwaying, and all of a sudden Jodi reached up tapped on the dash and turned them off.  The button had been right under our noses the whole time. Finally we got to our hotel, they had not gone to bed and forgotten us, and they had our reservation intact.  I had been a little worried, as I did not get a real confirmation; just a note saying that everything was o.k.!   The hotel was not actually what I was expecting, it was musty and a little old, but after a good airing, it was not really so bad.  Good thing, because there was probably not a room to be had because of D-Day even that far away.  The lovely thing about the hotel, other than the pool (according to the kids) was that one could see Mont St. Michele going and coming from it each day!

Je ne suis pas ancienne! June 3, 2009

Today is my birthday, my 50^th birthday to be exact.  The day for which I escaped to Paris.  The day on which I am always a little weepy and the day that  I think should be so very special.  My parents made it so as a child and I feel entitled to the same as an adult!  Usually I just take the day off from work, but I think 50 is a milestone.  I also knew that

none of my loved ones would know who to invite or what I would want for a BD party, so rather than stay here and feel sorry for myself that I did not get what I wanted (but of course had not told anyone - funny how no one can read my mind!) I made plans for this trip.   I got great mileage in the anticipation of planning, so really for me it was a whole year of anticipation.  I think I got my money's worth!

 So today I got up and let everyone sleep, I made myself a fabulous cup of coffee and did some blogging, trying to get caught up, and to be honest some (facebook) general computer piddling.  Then a little later I woke up Jodi and she and I left the kids and went for breakfast and some market shopping.  Breakfast was the usual coffee and croissant, but, hey, I LOVE it!  The market was so very fun, I wish I had taken more time and enjoyed it even more as I purchased a very fun top/jacket and even more "funner" dress.  I could not wait to wear the dress, but alas did not have the leggings to wear under it!  We purchased a couple more scarves and some tinned Fois Gras for later!  Jodi was horrified at all the pig parts for sale for people to eat.  All I could think was how much the kids (dogs) would have loved them!   We stopped in Monoprix for some sundries and then too soon, but due my worry about the kids we returned to the apartment.  They were up, the bed made and one of them had actually showered.  They were hungry of course, and we had not yet been to Angelina for some hot chocolate as a family, so off we went.  The kids had each had a Croque Monsieur and I had a round of the white chocolate macarons.  I wanted to order just one, and had to order 3 (I think, maybe 4) and as much as I like them more than one was too much.  I conned the kids into sharing, but I am thinking their palates are not that sophisticated yet! Mc Donald’s will do that you you!  The chocolate was thick, chocolaty and served with a huge parfait glass of chantilly (whipped cream). Upon leaving there we did some last minute souvenir shopping.  I had chosen a restaurant called Le Petite Margery for dinner and we needed to change for dinner.  We all clean up rather well and we did dress for dinner this evening, just to please me! Jodi and I each ordered a Kir Royal and for the kids I asked for something festive, they ended up with OJ with bubbly water.  I had Fois Gras with Rhubarb, Duck Breast with a honey sauce and gratinated raspberries and strawberries for dessert.  We ended up chatting with our neighbors who were also American.  The food was all very good and we had a good time together.  On the trip back Courtney got a serenade from some stranger in the metro, we don’t think she knew what she thought about that!  All in all just being in Paris with a part f my family made it a very good day!

 

I understand the Language Tuesday June 2, 2009

How I ever got it in my head that we had to go to Gare St. Lazare to catch the Eurostar, I will never know.  What I do know is that I did and did I ever feel like an idiot!  Tuesday was our big trip to London, a full day from 0500 to 2300!  We got up, and on the way to the Gare (station).  I was congratulating myself on our getting there on time.  I waited and waited in line to get out paper tickets and had another look at the form I had printed only to notice that we were at the wrong station!  Imagine my panic as we now have less than 30 minutes to get from one to the other, doable, but not necessarily getting on the train.  And let me tell you, I now know boarding is not quick!  We raced across town to get to Gare du Nord, only to stand in line again.  A man gave me a sob story about how his train was leaving in five minutes and I thought,  “Well mine is leaving in three”!  So I waited only to be told that I was in the wrong line.  Then when we finally found the Eurostar line, the lady took our tickets, changed them without asking, and then told us not to be late that evening or we would pay.  I couldn’t tell if she had done us a favor or just “did” for us.  Then getting on the train took (after a quick bite of breakfast) we had to go through immigration and while we have never had to show our parental consent letters, let me tell you we were lucky to have them.  I was impressed to be honest, made me feel that at least the Brits take child exploitation seriously.  Eventually we got on the train and the trip was fine.  I had entertained some second thoughts after offering this excursion to the kids. I was not sure how I would feel about being in that tunnel, under the channel for that long.   To be honest I did not even appreciate it.  We were in and out of several tunnels and I think our time in the actual Chunnel was 20 to 30 minutes.  That is pretty brief if you ask me.  I struggled with casting on a new knitting project and could not remember how to do it, nor could I get my I-Phone to work in the Chunnel!  How needy we are with our technology!  I finally got it started; I will always know the project I started in the Chunnel, though, because the edge is very irregular!

I would not recommend a one-day trip to London again, though Jodi and the kids enjoyed themselves, I felt that we just did not have enough time.  The kids immediately started saying how much better they like London because they could understand the language.  I had no patience for that as they have both had French learning modules for over two years!We got to Buckingham just as the guards began their change process.  We stood back as I knew we would be able to see well than if we tried to push into the crowd.  It is a lot of pomp and quite exciting the first time, though I think we lost the kids part way through.  It was hot, and long.  Next we went to Westminster Abby, to my amazement the kids were not impressed at seeing the grave of Geoffrey Chaucer.  We did a lot of “pay attention because you WILL see this name again!” while we were there.   I particularly enjoyed Westminster this time because I have done some reading about Queen Elizabeth, and Mary Queen of Scots.  Before we went in Courtney had expressed some feelings of hunger.  I assisted her in learning about delayed gratification.   I wanted them to experience a London Taxi, and we had a 3:00 appointment to ride the London Eye, so we caught a cab and ate at a place called the Slug and Lettuce near the eye.  It was o.k. nothing remarkable.  I allowed the waitress to talk me into ravioli and should have had the more “English” dish of Shepard’s Pie.  I did insist on Stickey Toffee Pudding.  Jodi liked it, though she did not want to admit it, both kids pretended to be aristocracy and turned up their noses!  As far as Stickey Toffee Pudding goes it was o.k. I have had better, but I HAD to have some. 

The Eye was one of my and Joe’s favorite things.  Jodi, on the other hand, loathed it and using that word is, I think, mild.  It was a fabulous, slow rotation around a huge Ferris wheel in a glass room.  It was awesome, I saw a London I had not really envisioned before!   Jodi survived and began taking photos of our exploits right away.  We took the tube to the Tower of London, but did not really have time to go inside, we did get to see the Tower Bridge, and Have a quick snack, no tea for us that day and catch our train back!  The trip back was uneventful and Jodi and the kids both said they loved the day. 

 

Monday, June 1, 2009 - All The Way To The Top

We got up early today because Joe was going to go all the way to the top of the Eiffel Tower this time.  I really wanted to eat lunch at the Jules Verne on my Birthday but was afraid to make reservations because last time we were in Paris he refused to go and Courtney and I went up, Jodi stayed down with him.  Not that it upset her that she did not have to go to the top, she of not the fondest of heights.  He stated his intentions on arrival, but I was unable to get reservations that late.  No big surprise to me, though the kids couldn’t figure it.  In the past I have made reservations as soon as I was allowed in order to get the time we wanted.   So we traipsed off to the towering beauty yet one more time to stand in line and wait our turn.  As usual getting the tribe off in a timely manner was difficult so we did not get there when we had agreed we wanted, but our wait was not as horrible as I expected.  45 minutes to an hour, I think.  I did not really keep track.  The trip up went smoothly, as usual there was another lengthy wait on the second level to go to the top.  It was an incredibly windy day and to be honest, I was a little uneasy at feeling her sway back and forth!  After the melodrama of going up was done the kids loved it.  I wish I could say the same for Jodi, though you would not know it by looking at her.  Of course Joe was very proud of himself!

For lunch we went to a place we had seen the night before, they make pizza without tomato chunks on it so Joey would not have to pick them off.  It was relatively hot and it was good to sit and relax a bit.  After, we journeyed to the Rodin museum only to find it closed on Mondays.  It had been a bit of a hike and we had rested on the way in one of the innumerable parks that exist in Paris.  We decided, however, to go on to Luxembourg garden and hang for a while.  We picked up some beverages on the way and sat in the shade.  We could not find enough chairs, Courtney had one and we just hung out on the bench until Courtney and Joe could scarf others.  Near us there was a disapproving elderly woman, and a few feet away on the other side of the walkway a bunch of nattering elderly gentlemen.  On one of Courtney’s  “Scarffing” missions an elderly black gentleman came right up and took the chair that she had vacated.  She was astounded, grumped for a minute and then started joking about going over, bawling out “I want my chair back”.  We all got a good laugh out of that. 

I made reservations at Bofinger for that evening as I hoped Jodi would enjoy their gazpacho, and thought I remembered them having steak tartare for Joey.  We paid a visit to the apartment, got cleaned up and headed back to Bofinger for dinner.  This restaurant is only a block or so from the apartment.  My prior visit had been very pleasant and I had no reason to expect otherwise.  The kids were adorable; they both clean up rather well.  They also both behave rather nicely in public and it makes us so proud.  Despite all of that pride our service was very different that evening, when compared it to what I had experienced before.  Had that been my first and only visit, I would not have returned.  I still don’t know about future visits.  I had fois gras, confit de canard  (Duck confit – which reminded me of pressure cooked meat and mashed potatoes) and an Isle Flotant (Which was quite frankly a mess – a Cream Anglaise with a heap of browned meringue floating on it); Jodi stalwartly finished it off for me after my first bite.  It was just wrong, two toppings in one dessert. Jodi liked her soup, Joe LOVED his tartare and Courtney ate a burger  (sans bun) off the kids menu.  Dinner was done and bed was calling.  

Sunday, May 31, 2009 - Make Up and Merry-Go-Rounds

Make up and Merry Go Rounds

Sunday, while everyone snoozed, (In light of this photo there had to be some bad dreaming involved!) I went to the market.  It was rather bitter sweet as I knew it would probably be my last visit to this market for now.  I took a bunch of photos, but the one that tickled me the most was the people lined up at the fish market.  In most stalls there may be a person or two, maybe even three, in front of you.  At the fish stalls though people were lined up as if they were giving it away.  I do think the fish is fresher here than at home, certainly than what we can purchase in good old Indiana.  By the way these green wheat like things are wild asparagus!  They are so mild!  I bought a fig and some Breton sweet bread for the kids to try.  I have been ENGOURAGING them to try new stuff on this trip.  Somehow I think Joe got my genes for that and I don’t know what food genes Courtney got!  He is all about most of what they have tried and she is a willing victim, but one bite is enough.  When I got back I  placed out a nice big spread of cheese, bread, meat, and of course the Frosted Flakes we purchased at the Monoprix!

We all just slipped in the doors of Notre Dame as the service began, and it was almost familiar to me by now.  The choir was probably the nicest so far, and the sermon short.  That is a good thing with kids who do not understand most of what is going on.

After, we had negotiated this prior; we went to Square JeanXXIII ( the park behind Notre Dame) where there is a “round spinney thing” on which the kids wanted to play.  They seemed to have a great time.  And it was fun to watch them play, such an example of where they are in life right now.  Make up and merry go-rounds, independence and “I miss my momma” are the contrasts in their lives.

We came back freshened up a bit and ate late lunch-early dinner at the Indiana Café, one of several in the city, near the apartment.  It was not like eating in Indiana though.

We had a 6PM Segway trip Sunday evening, I was tres thrilled and Jodi and the kids were ecstatic about it.  I was worried about my sense of balance, I have never been athletic in any way, or particularly graceful, and I was afraid I would tip the damned thing over.  Not to mention, rolling around on two wheels with a helmet on, is not my idea of a lovely Sunday evening in Paris.  But a girl does what a girl has to do to keep those she loves happy.  And happy they were! Driving the darned thing was not so bad. However, I felt like a dog in a Halloween costume, rolling around Paris like that.  I did enjoy our guide, he was a nice young man who really had some education on the places we visited and I learned more about this lovely city and French history in general.  There were a couple of times that I did not necessarily agree with his commentary, but why argue with him in front of the other tourists.  I did HAVE to mention it to Jodi later; she said, “I behaved nicely”! 

Saturday May 30, 2009 The Drama of Arrival

The Drama of Arrival and being so far from home!

 

I got up early yesterday morning to take the Metro to Gare du Nord, then from there the RER to Charles De Gaulle to met Jodi and the kids.  I found the on line flight information about the flight incredibly useful because it said that they had already landed at 0700, then plane was not due until 8:55.  So I started of uncertain, but I got there found the US airways ticket counter and was directed to the exit for the plane.  I then found a US airways information desk and asked where to find them.  We had brought walke talkies, and they worked, but only so-so.  FINALLY they came through the door and we go to the Taxi stand and even though I asked for a larger Taxi we all got crammed into a little one!.. Amazing how bad my French becomes when someone does not want to comply!

We got to the apt, got our baggage up the stairs, everyone got the orientation spiel and off we went to have a little look around the neighbor including a crepe with nutella and banana for Courtney and me.  Then because of crying babies, old med with strokes and no sleep. I let them have a 2.5 hour nap.  Bad move really because it has screwed with the sleep thing for them for the past 2 nights, but it was good in the short term as it allowed us to all be much nicer to each other with a little rest.

After everyone was back on their feet we decided some of the famous, gourmet Del Arte Pizza was in order.  We had it last time and agreed that should be before anything else.  Joe had to pick fresh tomatoes off his pizza as it is not quite like home.  In the metro we encountered a young woman experiencing the French version of a bachelorette party.  I have noticed this twice since I have been here, the idea is that a young woman dresses crazy in some way and her friends go out with her and bait her in public.  The young woman in the photo was dresses as a hula girl and was very gracious to let us photograph her.  I wish her a very happy marriage! 

Then we went to the Champs du Mars and hung out for a while people watching, Jodi and I kid watching.  We all agreed in total accord that crack kills!  They are both so very precious; they change (or I could say they are so  cambient!)  and become more fun each time we travel with them.  We played some cards, took photos and we rode BOTH of the carousels there by the tower!  I know at my age I should be over that, but I just am not able resist them here!